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American MilSim


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Everything posted by Dave

  1. DirtPro has been around for a long time and comes out to assist me and do his own thing. I really liked the placement of the FOB on the north airfield. Not putting it at the bottom of the hill certainly avoided further heat casualties. The actual tent itself could have been placed in the woods, but, oh well. RE: SAM site - hard enough keeping people in the fight than to worry about some pointless objective on the opposite side of the action. If it hadn't been for the boredom of the COST Recon dudes I don't think anyone would have cared enough to have gone to see it. Glad you brought that up though. Having objectives for the sake of something to do doesn't expand the game play, IMO. RE: playing on COST - I volunteered to work for COST this year but it didn't go anywhere. Rick called and asked me to help out with UFS and explained their situation, so I'm glad I went that route. DP and I ended up functioning primarily as RTOs for UFS command - not what I signed up for, but if it helps the rest of the command team out then that's what we'll do. We did have PLs/players come through and ask for SITREPs, so that was helpful.
  2. UFS TOC Common Operating Picture My $0.02 AAR: Pros 1) UFS leadership were able to push out to the front and help direct forces without getting bogged down in the TOC. Everyone meshed well and there was no bickering or self-stroking. We all had a job to do and did it. 2) OE254 antenna + base station was a HUGE help. The last time we had comms that good was when Hack set up repeaters (BH3/4?). 3) I liked the air drop simulation. Instead of getting dumped near the UFS FOB, I got dropped by V2. It was fun having to be in the fight for a while and actually migrating to the UFS FOB instead of rolling up in my truck Saturday morning and setting up shop. 4) Great assets were available, thanks especially the Brigade truck team. 5) I noticed several players stepping up and taking over leadership positions due to heatcas or other reasons. Next generation of UFS leadership is stepping up! 6) Ridiculous amount of water was available at the FOB, so kudos to those who contributed! Placing it in the sun was an poor choice (seriously... why was the TOC in the direct sun?), but Rick came through with some tarps and we made our own shade. Cons: A) We lost a lot of players due to heat casualties. If you are a new player or not in the best shape I would advise against wearing a plate carrier - they trap a lot of heat and will not serve you well. You don't need 20 pound assault bags either - make sure you take the environment into consideration before planning your kit. B ) Because I was asked close to the game to assist I missed out on some valuable command meetings. I assumed (whoops) that everyone had it in the bag and would just show up and roll with it. Bad idea. C) No prior coordination between S2 shop and UAS (btw, those kits were cool as hell and I want one!) D) No communication or coordination between S2 shop and the scout/raiders. That was very disappointing and does not reflect milsim. E) Usual SNAFUs with game planning - delayed pickup at startex, occasional lack of information from control, loss of direction at endex. F) Why didn't we do an AAR after endex with all the leadership and staff? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Limited scope for the main player body, but hopefully the map is interesting.
  3. 1) Full seal: Yes 2) ANSI Z87 rated: Yes 3) Goggles, glasses, or paintball mask: Yes
  4. If it meets the AMS requirements, yes. GENERAL REGULATIONS/SAFETY REQUIREMENTS A.ALL AMERICAN MILSIM EVENTS ARE BIO BBs ONLY! B. All players must wear full sealing ANSI Z87.1 rated goggles, glasses or paintball mask. Eye protection must be worn at all times while outside the staging area. NO safety glasses, shooting glasses, or mesh goggles. Full seal goggles/glasses must form a seal around the lenses that fully contacts the skin and will not let a bb inside the seal.
  5. Oh right, I forgot mine was a piece of shit courtesy of Airsoft GI. My sound setting did not work, so I had to get it externally wired to a little push button, which I ran back to my pistol grip. I don't remember if it came like that or not (I don't think they do)? If yours works off sound then you are good to go! My sights did not line up either but with the SAW I found it just as easy to walk the BBs in. Red dots/magnifiers, etc are excess weight on an already hefty AEG. I recommend a sling too - you may not want it all the time but when you're hiking half a mile back to respawn it can be a blessing.
  6. If you have one, post some info about it. I always thought they were pretty neat.
  7. I don't actually remember what I put into mine. I think it had a systema gearbox? I moved the wiring to the back and used a full buttstock to make life easier. I put rails on it so I could mount a PEQ for night ops but all the fields I played at banned full auto at night, so it was a waste of 120$. Looks cool as a wall hanger, though. I definitely recommend taping the magazine motor wiring to the pistol grip so you can operate everything with one hand. That made life a little easier. Honestly, I was completely underwhelmed with the A&K from the start. When I opened the box half the parts went flying across my living room and I was missing a few important items (like the retainer clip for the top cover). Airsoft GI hit me with a ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ when i called to to see how it was supposed to look. It spent a lot of time at a tech's house before I bothered using it. It was fun as hell when it worked.
  8. For the SAW I would recommend a hydration pack (nothing too fancy, just somewhere you can store spare parts or whatever when your SAW goes down) and a belt kit. I used a milsurp FLC with two SAW mag pouches on it and a couple other odds and ends and that worked out great. Pretty cheap, too. I ran a A&K SAW for a little while and had a number of issues with it, but I think I got a lemon. Lot of $ in upgrades.
  9. http://americanmilsim.com/forum/index.php?/topic/3201-american-milsim-ruleset/
  10. M4 is easily identifiable with collapsible stock, FSP, and carbine length gas system. It can be fired in semi or burst/auto. Mk12 is easily identifiable with its longer 18" bull barrel, full length gas system, and is semi only. Some have collapsible stocks. Think of it this way: the visual cues are so you don't run up on a guy with a DMR because of minimum engagement distance. Mk12 hardly looks like an M4 from distance, though to be fair with all the modularity it's hard to tell what anything is now.
  11. There are two (technically three) ways to roll during a low light op. 1) NODs - helmet or head mount. Mounting to the rifle kinda sucks since you're adding a lot of weight and forcing yourself to hold the rifle up in order to observe your surroundings. Boonie caps are great for concealment and keeping the sun off you - neither of which are particularly necessary at night. 2) Flashlight - works great if you can't afford NODs. Turns night into day in a small space, along with telling everyone around you where you are. Works both ways. 3) No light source at all. Sucks. Don't impale yourself. Lasers are good but same problem - it will announce your location to everyone. You will not get enough light amplification on target with a laser for proper IDing so you will need some sort of light source (1 or 2). I assume that "laser light combo" means you have a vis laser and vis light, which is good as a minimum. Low light scopes are better than nothing, but I do not think the cost benefit is worth it. You will probably need a RDS with your low light in order to aim (lol aiming in airsoft) and the RDS may damage your scope.
  12. You chose to embrace the extra realism. Consider it a treat to yourself! Pick your shots and utilize your FOB/mobile respawn time effectively and you should be ok. I ran lowcaps in my AEG for a while before I embraced the PTW. Adds more fun to it, I think.
  13. DESIGNATED MARKSMAN RIFLE (DMR) Designated Marksman Rifle is a special purpose weapon; it is a standard infantry rifle equipped with optics that have been enhanced for longer range and accuracy. Some examples of a DMR are - M16, SR-25, PSG-1, M14/M21, G36, AUG, G3-SG3, Dragunov (SVD) etc... Bolt action rifles may also function as a DMR as long as they adhere to the Max FPS. A. Designated Marksman Rifle (DMR) may ONLY operate SEMI-AUTO mode, and must be physically incapable of firing in full-auto. B. 450 fps max @ 6mm x .20g, 345 fps max @ 8mm x .34g for AEG C. 355 FPS max (1.88 J) for 6mm x .32g for Gas Weapons (Classics, PolarStars, GBBRs). D. Limit ONE (1) DMR per squad (or otherwise stated). E. Weapons using an external gas source must have a locked regulator to prevent field adjustment. F. Operators of a DMR are required to carry either a standard AEG or sidearm to engage targets within the minimum engagement distances. G. Mid or Real Cap Magazines only. H. Minimum engagement distance of 60 feet. I. Carbine rifles do not qualify for DMR J. May not engage targets within the same building. K. May carry 7 magazines on your person. Without pictures, "tactical FN FAL" could mean a number of things, but it sounds like it would be a regular carbine and not meet DMR requirements.
  14. Especially since UFS has 6 patterns and CoST only has 5...
  15. There are always going to be outliers that fall into the "stupid is as stupid does' category, even if you staple the ruleset to their shirt.
  16. Spam Rick with invite requests
  17. It's been a minute huh Small recommendation, and irrelevant to your actual loadout, but it would be cool if you labelled what you had in which pouch from left to right with that pic. Would help to fine tune your actual load. With the extra batteries and BBs I think you'll be good to go bud. Not much to review since your kit is very simplistic - nothing wrong with that!
  18. Focus more on your tradecraft than your base pattern. Learning how to move slowly, route choice, picking concealment, and staying in the shadows (and more if you sit and hash it out) will give you more of an advantage than which particular shade of forest green and brown you choose. Slight advantages might be gained from one pattern to the next, but if you aren't covering your face/arms/hands then the advantage may be negligible. My recommendation is go to a local skirmish, pick out guys wearing different patterns, and ask them to do a "stand by that bush" experiment. If you look up Georgia hunting forums you can probably find a "what pattern to wear pl0x" thread with much better information. Great resource brother!
  19. Mlord perhaps hold the camera steady next time you take pictures. FYI: a scope ring mount costs ~ $5, you can wrap your flashlight in tape if it does not fit properly and screw it to your rail to avoid the zip tie.
  20. Sounds like a very fundamental kit loadout. That's a lot of pouch requirements for an ALICE belt, are you sure it all fits? A couple of bandages will not take up much room in an ALICE mag pouch. I would combine the reloader with the bandages, or get an ALICE compass/FAK pouch to dump them into. They are very, very cheap. Since you have a bladder I would ditch the canteen or move it to your backpack. Why are you carrying a jacket around all day? Can you leave it in the car, or leave it at the FOB? You can't reload in play (as far as I know), so it might be better to leave everything in your backpack at a designated place. Don't see any mention of extra BBs/batteries. I would pick up extras of both. Add: snacks, deadrag, gloves, extra pair of socks, map, watch, flashlight
  21. Dave


    After the great google docs phish debacle of 2017, perhaps you could just post it here so none of us have to open a random link
  22. Since this was already necropost revived... Mayo did a great basic baby picture review of Gen 1/2/3 night vision in this timeless classic 2013 thread. http://americanmilsim.com/forum/index.php?/topic/1268-night-vision-gen-1-vs-gen-2-vs-gen-3/ In short: skip the Gen 1 and save up for Gen 2.
  23. Google is your friend for weather and nearby activities.
  24. Sorry for delay, my internet is slow at work sometimes. Gen 1 is useless without an IR illuminator, which will show up like a flashlight to anyone using NODs. The quality is low on them as well. Skip. The quality of Gen 2+ has improved over the last few years. You have a couple of options: 1) Buy a Gen 2+ for slightly less than a Gen 3 from a reliable site. You will have a warranty if something happens. Should be around $2800. 2) Buy a "Gen 2+" from bubba on ebay for $1800. Probably no warranty. 3) Buy a "Gen 3" from bubba on ebay for $2200. Probably no warranty. Remember that you will probably need to buy an IR laser as well - skip the G&P (mine sucked) and spend to get something a little better, like an OTAL.
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